DT 1999 not starting please help! do i need an engine re-build??
#31
Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:30 AM
i dont have a torque wrench is it an essential for this type of work?
here is quick video of the piston, you can really see it but its better than nothing:
Ollie
#32
Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:49 AM
Ollie 125 lover, on 09 March 2010 - 12:30 AM, said:
i dont have a torque wrench is it an essential for this type of work?
here is quick video of the piston, you can really see it but its better than nothing:
Ollie
No a torque wrench isnt essential but for the ineperienced its advisable, its that kind of thing that snaps studs and strips threads, like on your inlet manifold. Just give the bore a quick hone with some 400 grade wet / dry paper it'll be fine.
#33
Posted 09 March 2010 - 08:04 AM
Vez
#34
Posted 09 March 2010 - 10:05 AM
if your going to start repairing bikes a torque wrench is a must
My link
like Vez says get a pukka yamaha gasket set , and take your time , stick some rags in the casings and clean up the facings,your piston doesnt look too bad can you vid the piston again all way round slowly. you might get away with new rings hope you havent destroyed the circlips though.
it all depends if you are keeping it or moving it on ??
need to get back to work
#35
Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:55 PM
Glad you are getting somewhere with the motor.
Bob
#36
Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:23 PM
How many miles did you say were on the bike ?
You need to check the piston and barrel for ware against eachother to make sure they are within the specs given.
I would hate for you to put it all back to-geather and then find that you have some piston slap.
Ps. take your time
#37
Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:04 PM
i am uploading a video on youtube with the bike started!
Thanks again for everyones help i am really happy that i have done this myself (with your help of course) and feel confident that i could do it again no worries (was alot easier than i expected)!!
#38
Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:34 PM
Dont worry about choking in high revs that could be the bike needs de-restricting in some way and thats a whole now topic. Get it run in properly,
#39
Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:59 PM
Any way here is the video i put on youtube:
Thanks All!
#40
Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:14 PM
Ollie 125 lover, on 12 March 2010 - 08:59 PM, said:
Any way here is the video i put on youtube:
Thanks All!
Well I suggest you hand over the receipts for the top end stuff when you sell it. Tecnically you should never have found this reluctance to red line...Its being run in!
#41
Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:31 PM
#42
Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:02 PM
Ollie 125 lover, on 12 March 2010 - 09:31 PM, said:
they do run rough when they are cold anyway, lots of coughing spluttering four stroking etc. it all clears up when the engine is warmed up.
#43
Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:12 PM
oldgitonabike, on 12 March 2010 - 10:02 PM, said:
Aye auld een" u shud click on link, Its running awfull , BOGGING / No idle/ cables are knackered, mixture al over the place, needs to settup from start, aye and reving the balls off it
Nae poke " without Smoke"
#44
Posted 12 March 2010 - 11:04 PM
blackhat250, on 12 March 2010 - 10:12 PM, said:
Ollie get yourself a new throttle cable and then you can adjust the carb, there is no point trying to set your carb up if the throttle cable is sticking which it is.
once you have done this you should not need to remove the air intake, then you need to take it for a run but dont get into the high revs and it will settle down
to be truthful, and its only my opinion , i think you have paid top dollar for the bike and its had a hard life and not a keeper, hope you manage to get a return on it when you come to sell it
just dont sell it to any of us on the forum
cheers al
#45
Posted 13 March 2010 - 11:32 AM
As OG says it will run alot better when its warm, especially with the heated carb taking time to reach a good temp. Warm it up for a good 10 mins with low revs, then sort the mixture out(1.5 turns out on the mixture screw). The air filter is always worth a look/clean/re-oil, just to be sure you haven't got a family of mice holed up in there.
Also there didn't seem to be much smoking going on, you may want to check the 2-stroke pump to see if it needs bleeding, unless the bike was warmed up in the vid, but even then i would expect a little more smoke.
Vez.
#46
Posted 13 March 2010 - 11:08 PM
Ollie Ollie Ollie
What the f........
Why have you not asked anything before jumping the gun !
I really hope you have bled the oil pump and then held the pully in the fully open position for the first min or more untill you can see alot of smoke when you started it first.
Ps. if your learning about fixing bikes then you need to ask Questions.
#47
Posted 14 March 2010 - 03:23 PM
#48
Posted 15 March 2010 - 06:36 PM
Thanks guys,
by the way the fuel pump is working fine and there is more smoke coming out of the exhaust.
#49
Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:45 PM
Vez.
#50
Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:38 PM
Ollie
#51
Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:53 PM
Is it running any better these last few days or are you still sorting out little problems.
#52
Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:01 PM
#53
Posted 16 March 2010 - 03:20 PM
so the question is how can i get it to run like this with out the choke on and airfilter plug off??
Thanks all!
#54
Posted 16 March 2010 - 06:03 PM
First thing i would do is block the air inlets slightly with my hand to see if it improves or gets worse.
My guess is a fuel shortage with the choke needing to be on(or an air leak giving a bad mixture). Make sure the mixture screw is 1&1/2 turns out and the needle clip is on the 3rd groove from the top(4th for a PV model iirc). If they already are and it runs the same then its possibly an air leak. Squirt some WD40 or similar around the inlet manifold and the air inlet rubber and watch for bubbles.
If there are no air leaks and the mixture is right etc. then its gonna be a pita to sort you can bet, as it can be a number of other things (wrong jets, blockage in the carb to name 2).
I may be overlooking something obvious, so someone else may come along with a better/correct solution(having an off day today
Vez.
#55
Posted 16 March 2010 - 07:26 PM
Whats an "airfilter plug thingy"
#56
Posted 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM
More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.
Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!
Ollie
#57
Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:10 PM
Ollie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM, said:
More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.
Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!
Ollie
Lesson learned Ollie, you just paid a little too much for it i hope you didnt lose too much...hopefully you will have a more critical eye yourself the next one you buy. Still the whole experience must have been good. These bikes are more often than not ragged to death so you really do have to go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Good luck with next ione
#58
Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:20 PM
Ollie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM, said:
More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.
Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!
Ollie
Your welcome any time mate. As long as you learned something i don't feel it was a waste of time.
Quick story on the oil in the rad bit. When i took my DT for its first service, the plank of an apprentice at the garage put the oil in the radiator bottle and the coolant in the 2-stroke tank! I was not amused
Better luck next time, and hope you get a good price for your CBR
Vez.
#59
Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:20 PM
ok so not related but i am debating swapping my cbr for rs 125, i know the rs's are unreliable and sound crap but my mate has an nsr and just pisses all over me. would it be a bad swap for me?
another random thing that i need to know is: i dont use l plates on my bike and prepared to pay the fine if worst comes to worst but am i actually invalidating my insurance?
Thanks all, Ollie
#60
Posted 18 March 2010 - 11:27 PM
Ollie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 09:20 PM, said:
ok so not related but i am debating swapping my cbr for rs 125, i know the rs's are unreliable and sound crap but my mate has an nsr and just pisses all over me. would it be a bad swap for me?
another random thing that i need to know is: i dont use l plates on my bike and prepared to pay the fine if worst comes to worst but am i actually invalidating my insurance?
Thanks all, Ollie
I hear good and bad things about the rs125's (never rode one so just hearsay) good: they are fast, supposedly handle ok too, bad: they are very unreliable, nearly disposable like a scooter and difficult to source good second hand parts for. Where as your cbr being a Honda is probably very reliable with average performance/handling.
If the rs wont be your main transport and your willing to spend either plenty of time in the shed or lots of money on a mechanic, then it will be ok i guess.
Why not go for a YAMAHA R125? YAMAHA being the operative word there
YES you are invalidating your insurance by not having L plates on, i think the term used on your policy is "must drive in accordance with your license" and on a CBT you must have L plates displayed at all times. Besides its a possible 2 year ban if a clued in plod stops you. Its way too easy to get banned on a cbt as it is whithout risking it for the sake of a little red L.
Vez.

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