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DT 1999 not starting please help! do i need an engine re-build??

#31 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:30 AM

Thanks for all the instant replies, i am pretty sure no other bits of broken ring fell anywhere as it seems to be complete when put together, i have looked at the bore and havnt noticed any big scratches so i think its ok. should i clean it anyway and what with? can i just use the old petrol, tooth brush and a rag?
i dont have a torque wrench is it an essential for this type of work?

here is quick video of the piston, you can really see it but its better than nothing:


Ollie
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#32 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:49 AM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 09 March 2010 - 12:30 AM, said:

Thanks for all the instant replies, i am pretty sure no other bits of broken ring fell anywhere as it seems to be complete when put together, i have looked at the bore and havnt noticed any big scratches so i think its ok. should i clean it anyway and what with? can i just use the old petrol, tooth brush and a rag?
i dont have a torque wrench is it an essential for this type of work?

here is quick video of the piston, you can really see it but its better than nothing:


Ollie

No a torque wrench isnt essential but for the ineperienced its advisable, its that kind of thing that snaps studs and strips threads, like on your inlet manifold. Just give the bore a quick hone with some 400 grade wet / dry paper it'll be fine.
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#33 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 08:04 AM

   In response to your video, you should get 2 new o-rings with a head gasket kit for the powervalve. Don't get a cheap gasket kit go for Yamaha. The silicone sealant will just take a little time and patience to remove, try to get it all out or it may block the heater pipes for the carb. In my experience its always good to use sealant and gaskets when refitting the heads on older more worn heads and barrels as they tend to warp a little with being ally. And i second FZR AL's method for refitting the piston as it's worked well for me in the past. 

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#34 User is offline   FZR AL 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 10:05 AM

Ollie ,

if your going to start repairing bikes a torque wrench is a must
My link

like Vez says get a pukka yamaha gasket set , and take your time , stick some rags in the casings and clean up the facings,your piston doesnt look too bad can you vid the piston again all way round slowly. you might get away with new rings hope you havent destroyed the circlips though.

it all depends if you are keeping it or moving it on ??



need to get back to work
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#35 User is offline   bob-c 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:55 PM

My son bought me an identical torque wrench to that for xmas , I was brought up repairing engines without one and you develop a feel for the correct torque. It was interesting to check my instinct against the wrench .I reckon I don't need one but without the length of experience you should definitely use one- get it bought and then print off the list of settings from the manual ,laminate it and keep it to hand .
Glad you are getting somewhere with the motor.
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#36 User is offline   2 Wheels 

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:23 PM

Have you looked to see what size piston you are on and the barrel. Has it ever been rebored ?
How many miles did you say were on the bike ?
You need to check the piston and barrel for ware against eachother to make sure they are within the specs given.
I would hate for you to put it all back to-geather and then find that you have some piston slap.

Ps. take your timePosted Image
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#37 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:04 PM

Thanks for all the responses everyone! I just fitted a new piston rings and gasket set and.... it STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!! i am so glad that its going now, only a couple of small problems worst being that when riding it hard into the higher revs it is choking for air so i have tried taking the little plug out of the side of airfilter pipe and it goes much better at the higher revs but there is too much air for the low revs and it just cuts out.


i am uploading a video on youtube with the bike started!

Thanks again for everyones help i am really happy that i have done this myself (with your help of course) and feel confident that i could do it again no worries (was alot easier than i expected)!!
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#38 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:34 PM

Whoaa!! what on earth are you doing going into the hight revs? your new piston and rings will need running in for 500 miles :o
Dont worry about choking in high revs that could be the bike needs de-restricting in some way and thats a whole now topic. Get it run in properly,
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#39 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 08:59 PM

woops il try to keep the revs down, the problem is i dont really plan on keeping the bike too long and i can do a week insurance its only for the whole year so i wont be able to use it for 500 miles.

Any way here is the video i put on youtube:

Thanks All!
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#40 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:14 PM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 12 March 2010 - 08:59 PM, said:

woops il try to keep the revs down, the problem is i dont really plan on keeping the bike too long and i can do a week insurance its only for the whole year so i wont be able to use it for 500 miles.

Any way here is the video i put on youtube:

Thanks All!

Well I suggest you hand over the receipts for the top end stuff when you sell it. Tecnically you should never have found this reluctance to red line...Its being run in! ;)
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#41 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:31 PM

ok i will keep that in mind, so you dont think its a problem with the airfilter then? it did seem to be getting better after it was warming up, will try again tommorow!
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#42 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:02 PM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 12 March 2010 - 09:31 PM, said:

ok i will keep that in mind, so you dont think its a problem with the airfilter then? it did seem to be getting better after it was warming up, will try again tommorow!

they do run rough when they are cold anyway, lots of coughing spluttering four stroking etc. it all clears up when the engine is warmed up.
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#43 User is offline   blackhat250 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 10:12 PM

View Postoldgitonabike, on 12 March 2010 - 10:02 PM, said:

they do run rough when they are cold anyway, lots of coughing spluttering four stroking etc. it all clears up when the engine is warmed up.

Aye auld een" u shud click on link, Its running awfull , BOGGING / No idle/ cables are knackered, mixture al over the place, needs to settup from start, aye and reving the balls off it
Posted Image Nae poke " without Smoke"
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#44 User is offline   FZR AL 

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 11:04 PM

View Postblackhat250, on 12 March 2010 - 10:12 PM, said:

Aye auld een" u shud click on link, Its running awfull , BOGGING / No idle/ cables are knackered, mixture al over the place, needs to settup from start, aye and reving the balls off it



Ollie get yourself a new throttle cable and then you can adjust the carb, there is no point trying to set your carb up if the throttle cable is sticking which it is.

once you have done this you should not need to remove the air intake, then you need to take it for a run but dont get into the high revs and it will settle down

to be truthful, and its only my opinion , i think you have paid top dollar for the bike and its had a hard life and not a keeper, hope you manage to get a return on it when you come to sell it

just dont sell it to any of us on the forum :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

cheers al
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#45 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 11:32 AM

I would check the throttle cable junction box out before buying a new one, had mine stick there before now.

As OG says it will run alot better when its warm, especially with the heated carb taking time to reach a good temp. Warm it up for a good 10 mins with low revs, then sort the mixture out(1.5 turns out on the mixture screw). The air filter is always worth a look/clean/re-oil, just to be sure you haven't got a family of mice holed up in there. 

Also there didn't seem to be much smoking going on, you may want to check the 2-stroke pump to see if it needs bleeding, unless the bike was warmed up in the vid, but even then i would expect a little more smoke. 

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#46 User is offline   2 Wheels 

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 11:08 PM

Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image
Ollie Ollie Ollie

What the f........

Why have you not asked anything before jumping the gun !

I really hope you have bled the oil pump and then held the pully in the fully open position for the first min or more untill you can see alot of smoke when you started it first.

Ps. if your learning about fixing bikes then you need to ask Questions.
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#47 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 03:23 PM

Look what i found    http://www.pistonhea...les/1560299.htm    :P (is that your towel on the floor over there Ollie?)
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#48 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 06:36 PM

Yes i am afraid i am trying to sell it now :unsure: just had another problem... i was playing around with the needle in the carb (adjusting the cir clip to see if it would run better) and for some reason when i attach the fuel tank it just pisses fuel out of both the overflow pipes?? what could have changed while i was doing this? has it got anything to do with the needle being up or down or could i have just moved something be accident?

Thanks guys,
by the way the fuel pump is working fine and there is more smoke coming out of the exhaust.
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#49 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:45 PM

Sounds like the floats are sticking in the carb, probably disturbed a bit of crud while moving the tank about, easy fix tbh. Try tapping the bottom side of the carb with a screwdriver handle or similar implement. Or for a proper fix take the carb off and clean it out, flush the fuel tank out and clean the filters attached to the tank tap and carb fuel inlet.

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#50 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:38 PM

cheers mate will do that tommorow and let you know how i get on. taking the carb off is easier said than done on this bike because the airfilter bolts are burred and so i cant really take the airfilter off. i got it off before by taking the inlet manifold out but i have put alot of silcone on it to stop it from sucking in air (snapped bolt in there).
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#51 User is offline   2 Wheels 

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:53 PM

Have you managed to get it to idle yet.
Is it running any better these last few days or are you still sorting out little problems.
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#52 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:01 PM

No need to take the air filter off or inlet manifold, force the carb backwards and the rubber mount to the air filter will give enough to get the carb out. That said i would still tap the carb first.
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#53 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 03:20 PM

ok sorted out the carb now (thanks vez!) i have got the bike to run really well but this is because i have to cable tie the choke on and have taken the airfilter plug thingy out. obviously this is not satisfactory but at least i know it has the potential to run ok..

so the question is how can i get it to run like this with out the choke on and airfilter plug off??
Thanks all!
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#54 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 06:03 PM

Whats the air filter plug? The snorkel at the top or the drain at the bottom?

First thing i would do is block the air inlets slightly with my hand to see if it improves or gets worse.

My guess is a fuel shortage with the choke needing to be on(or an air leak giving a bad mixture). Make sure the mixture screw is 1&1/2 turns out and the needle clip is on the 3rd groove from the top(4th for a PV model iirc). If they already are and it runs the same then its possibly an air leak. Squirt some WD40 or similar around the inlet manifold and the air inlet rubber and watch for bubbles.

If there are no air leaks and the mixture is right etc. then its gonna be a pita to sort you can bet, as it can be a number of other things (wrong jets, blockage in the carb to name 2).

I may be overlooking something obvious, so someone else may come along with a better/correct solution(having an off day today  :blink: )

Vez. 
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#55 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 07:26 PM

Times like this i wish you could post pictures.
Whats an "airfilter plug thingy" :blink: ?
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#56 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM

I am afraid to say that i just sold the bike (not for profit <_< ) and just wanted to say thanks so much everyone for helping me. i really hope you dont all feel i have wasted your time because i will definitly buy another one of these bikes because i really do like them, its just a shame this one had been ragged to death by the retarded previous owner!

More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.


Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!

Ollie
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#57 User is offline   oldgitonabike 

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:10 PM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM, said:

I am afraid to say that i just sold the bike (not for profit <_< ) and just wanted to say thanks so much everyone for helping me. i really hope you dont all feel i have wasted your time because i will definitly buy another one of these bikes because i really do like them, its just a shame this one had been ragged to death by the retarded previous owner!

More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.


Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!

Ollie

Lesson learned Ollie, you just paid a little too much for it i hope you didnt lose too much...hopefully you will have a more critical eye yourself the next one you buy. Still the whole experience must have been good. These bikes are more often than not ragged to death so you really do have to go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Good luck with next ione ;)
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#58 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:20 PM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 10:41 AM, said:

I am afraid to say that i just sold the bike (not for profit <_< ) and just wanted to say thanks so much everyone for helping me. i really hope you dont all feel i have wasted your time because i will definitly buy another one of these bikes because i really do like them, its just a shame this one had been ragged to death by the retarded previous owner!

More problems that were pointed out to me were : head bearings were fuked and there was loads of oil in the radiator the guy before must have actually poured oil into the radator water bottle! bit embaraased i didnt notice that but oh well.


Thanks again for all the helpful responses i got!!

Ollie

Your welcome any time mate. As long as you learned something i don't feel it was a waste of time. 


Quick story on the oil in the rad bit. When i took my DT for its first service, the plank of an apprentice at the garage put the oil in the radiator bottle and the coolant in the 2-stroke tank! I was not amused  :angry:

Better luck next time, and hope you get a good price for your CBR  ;).

Vez.


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#59 User is offline   Ollie 125 lover 

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:20 PM

yes you are right i definitly learned a lesson, i will always check bikes much more throughly and am much more confident with the whole replacing pistons deal so its not all bad, and.. i learned the magic of forums and how many freindly people there are out there are who are willing to share there knowledge!!!

ok so not related but i am debating swapping my cbr for rs 125, i know the rs's are unreliable and sound crap but my mate has an nsr and just pisses all over me. would it be a bad swap for me?

another random thing that i need to know is: i dont use l plates on my bike and prepared to pay the fine if worst comes to worst but am i actually invalidating my insurance?

Thanks all, Ollie
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#60 User is offline   Vez 

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 11:27 PM

View PostOllie 125 lover, on 18 March 2010 - 09:20 PM, said:

yes you are right i definitly learned a lesson, i will always check bikes much more throughly and am much more confident with the whole replacing pistons deal so its not all bad, and.. i learned the magic of forums and how many freindly people there are out there are who are willing to share there knowledge!!!

ok so not related but i am debating swapping my cbr for rs 125, i know the rs's are unreliable and sound crap but my mate has an nsr and just pisses all over me. would it be a bad swap for me?

another random thing that i need to know is: i dont use l plates on my bike and prepared to pay the fine if worst comes to worst but am i actually invalidating my insurance?

Thanks all, Ollie


I hear good and bad things about the rs125's (never rode one so just hearsay) good: they are fast, supposedly handle ok too, bad: they are very unreliable, nearly disposable like a scooter and difficult to source good second hand parts for. Where as your cbr being a Honda is probably very reliable with average performance/handling.

If the rs wont be your main transport and your willing to spend either plenty of time in the shed or lots of money on a mechanic, then it will be ok i guess.

Why not go for a YAMAHA  R125?  YAMAHA being the operative word there :P.


YES you are invalidating your insurance by not having L plates on, i think the term used on your policy is "must drive in accordance with your license" and on a CBT you must have L plates displayed at all times. Besides its a possible 2 year ban if a clued in plod stops you. Its way too easy to get banned on a cbt as it is whithout risking it for the sake of a little red L.

Vez.


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